blog

The CUT – 3.4.12

We skipped our weekly link section last week due to an impromptu trip to Boston (more on that to come). Looking now at the best of the web from the past week, it seems the only reasonable course of action is to turn this into an all-shoe blog. What can we say… we’re fetishists.

1. The Gatsby

These incredible two-tone brogues by Alden recall Jay Gatsby’s West Egg style. The question is, will DiCaprio be sporting them in the upcoming film?

2. Katy Perry for Interview Magazine

Interview Magazine’s photo shoot with Katy Perry is about the only reason why we’d ever be interested in the young pop star. Let us know if the interview is worth a look.

3. Black Tie at the Oscars

Tom Hanks, Gary Oldman, and Colin Firth are so boss it hurts.

4. Wild Things for Smith & Wesson

In what is hands-down the most American collaboration on record, Smith & Wesson has entered the apparel game with jackets made by military outfitter Wild Things. The jacket has a built-in pocket for concealed weapons. A fucking handgun pocket!

5. Leather LunarGrands

The extremely hyped LunarGrands are now available in leather. Now if only you could order them online…

6. Oak Street Bootmakers

A really nice video on the hand-sewn process behind Oak Street’s shoes and boots.

7. Cutting a Channel

In case you were wondering how a bespoke shoemaker hides the stitches on a welted sole, here you go.

8. Nike FlyKnit

Ok, we get it. Nike’s shoes are made by disfigured preteens sitting on hot plates for seventeen hours a day. But they make you invisible!

9. Turnbull and Asser’s Buttons

Turnbull and Asser’s button-making process will give you a good idea of how awesome their shirts are.

10. NYFW in 5 Minutes

These five minutes of nauseating repetitiveness pretty much sum up the last two weeks on the menswear blogosphere.

Sole Train: Shell Cordovan

Not to be confused with burgundy, Genuine Shell Cordovan is a durable leather with a one-of-a-kind finish used in high-end dress shoes and boots. Taking its name from Cordoba, Spain—where it was first prepared by the Moors—the “Shell” is the leather beneath the hide on a horse’s rump. Apparently, “Shell Cordovan” just sounded better than “Horse’s Ass Leather.”

The Wolverine Boot Company was one of the first makers to utilize cordovan in the manufacturing of work boots. Around 1910, the first Wolverine 1000 mile work boots made of “Shell Horsehide” were produced. Wolverine traded shell for pigskin in the 1950’s, but the method for tanning cordovan lives on.

Since 1905, Horween Leather Company has been tanning leather in Chicago, IL. The manufacturing of shell Cordovan is a staple of their business to this day. It takes six months of vegetable tanning to create a cordovan that is rich, strong, and supple.

The unique properties of Horween Shell Cordovan make it impossible to mimic in mass production. The shoes from Alden of New England are perhaps the best examples of the potential of this remarkable leather. Only a company using the most meticulous standards and traditional crafting methods has any hope of realizing true shell cordovan.

The philosophy inherent in the continued production of shell cordovan is best summarized by Arnold Horween III, Chairman and President of Horween Leather Company:

“Quality must be more than a word. It doesn’t belong to one company or one country, it doesn’t happen by chance, and it requires constant attention. It’s a contract between seller and buyer – an agreement that something is good and worth having. Our greatest enemy is the phrase ‘it’s good enough’.”

Maxton Men

Surfing around the other day, we took a look at Maxton Men, an online boutique specializing in affordable menswear. The site launched last October (late to the game on this one—apologies) with a namesake line that includes ties, tie bars, and shoelaces. We’re certain the well-priced tie bars and shoelaces are up to scratch, but we’re a bit skeptical about the neckwear. That said, the store has gathered together a few hits from the online world from the past year, including Old Calgary accessories and the Tsaiclip moustache tie bar. As you may recall, Tsaiclip was a well-funded Kickstarter campaign that was featured on a number of blogs, and it looks to have made its way into regular production. Interestingly, Old Calgary’s signature felt and leather tech cases are actually cheaper than on OC’s Etsy page. Moreover, Herschel Supply’s Ravine Duffel is $5 cheaper than from the brand’s website. Also on offer are shaving brushes and soaps from Colonel Conk at an affordable price—perfect for those looking to get into old-school grooming.

The site is definitely worth a look if you’re interested in snatching up some essentials. Still in beta, they are offering free shipping on all orders with no minimum. Time to stock up on colored laces for spring.

Bertrand Russell on Smoking

British philosopher Bertrand Russel tells the story of a time smoking saved his life. Russel requested to transfer to the smoking section during an airplane flight, saying, “If I cannot smoke, I shall die.” The plane crash-landed in water, drowning the inhabitants of the non-smoking section as the smokers escaped into the water.

Russell died at 97, having enjoyed a lifetime of  smoking Fribourg & Treyer’s “Golden Blend” tobacco from his straight billiard pipe.

Put that in your pipe and smoke it.

Scent Trail: Eau de Cologne

For hundreds of years, the invention of Eau de Cologne was accredited to Giovanni Maria Farina. It was believed that he created the original Eau de Cologne—then called Aqua Admirabilis—in 1709 through the combination of a bergamot and neroli citrus top note complimented with an herbal base, most likely rosemary or lavender. Used as a mouthwash, the concoction was safely ingestible due to the grape spirits that held the scent. Of his new creation, Farina is quoted as saying, “I have discovered a scent that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain.”

Perfumes had been available for centuries in the Middle East, and the guild of glove and perfume makers was established in France in 1656. Aqua Admirabilis differentiated itself because of its complexity and lightness compared to the simple one-note scents—such as vanilla or cinnamon—that came from the Middle East. Furthermore, the public marveled at the homogenous nature of Eau de Cologne despite its composition of many mono-essences. Extremely popular and expensive, the average vial cost half of a civil servants salary at the time.

During the Seven Years war, France and Britain invaded the Rhine and discovered Aqua Admirabilis while ransacking homes. This provided international exposure to the mixture as soldiers sent home samples and took it with them when they returned. After applying the mixture after battle, soldiers and officers discovered that the mixture had the added benefit of disinfecting wounds. Although unknown at the time, this was due to the grape alcohol in the mixture. Following this discovery, Aqua Admirabilis became more popular as a salve and scented cleanser than as a mouthwash. With the spreading of the mixture into the houses of France, Italy and Russia, the renamed Eau de Cologne started to take on its modern form.

Farina was immortalized in Cologne as his concoction became synonymous with men’s fragrance. He was given his own street and a statue on the town Hall of Cologne. Despite competition from many imitating brands, the Farina family line continued to create Eau de Cologne from their ancestor’s famous formula.

In 2008, however, the Santa Maria Maggiore council confirmed that the real inventor of Eau de Cologne was Gian Paolo Feminis. Feminis, like Farina, came from Santa Maria Maggiore, Italy and moved to Cologne. It is now believed that Feminis and not Farina first moved to Cologne with the formula of Eau de Cologne and began producing it as a cure-all. Finding some success, he sent for Farina—possibly a nephew—and they began producing Cologne together with Farina eventually taking over the business. The key evidence in the case came in the form of a piece of paper. Penned by Farina’s grandson, the inscription was attached to a bottle of Eau de Cologne and attributes the creation to Feminis.

The Other Chambray

The history of chambray (or cambric) begins in northern France with sunbonnets. Jean-Baptiste Cambray is responsible for inventing the fabric in the 1300s near modern-day Cambrai. Favored for its softness and lightweight construction, chambray was originally used for ecclesiastical clothing, infant wraps, and other fine linens. While it can take many forms, chambray is a cotton fabric characterized by a dyed warp and a white weft, which results in a natural luster and faded coloration.

In the early 1900s, it became a standard for workwear because it was breathable and relatively durable. Such was its popularity that members of the working class earned the monicker “blue collar.” Nowadays, heritage brands everywhere are pushing the classic blue chambray work shirt, which is fine, but how many blue work shirts do you really need?

Here are four quality shirts that show the range of chambray from bright spring kick-arounds to muted and refined jacquard prints.

From top:

• Rogue Territory (USA, $115)
• Gitman Vintage (USA, $170)
• J. Press (England, $145)
• Read’s Clothing Project (USA, $165)